Ancient Empires, Living Bazaars

The original street food -- slow-roasted meat carved to order, or a thin flatbread topped with spiced minced lamb. Istanbul back streets are full of tiny lokantalar serving these for next to nothing.

A Turkish meal begins with meze -- dozens of small plates of hummus, cacik, borek and stuffed vine leaves. Order fresh juice alongside and the evening will last for hours.

On the Galata Bridge, fishermen grill mackerel fresh off their boats and tuck it into crusty bread with onion and parsley. It costs next to nothing and tastes extraordinary.

The Turkish breakfast spread -- olives, white cheese, tomatoes, honey, clotted cream, eggs and endless bread -- is one of the great meals of the world. Budget 90 minutes and arrive hungry.

Istanbul baklava makers have been perfecting their craft for centuries. The pistachio version -- thin pastry, crushed nuts, clarified butter and sugar syrup -- is the benchmark.